Design Life-Cycle

Jaida Jacobie

Safia Nemr and Mitch Hernandez

DES 40A

Professor Cogdell

The Materials Used during the Life Cycle of Pandora Charm Bracelets

Pandora Jewelry, however imperfect, has made a strong attempt to use recycled materials and less carbon emissions to be more sustainable while keeping the quality of their jewelry high. Pandora Charm bracelets support a consumerist mindset to buy more charms that are sold separately to add to the bracelet to “complete it”. With the price of the jewelry being rather high it begs the question what are we putting our money into? We chose to conduct a life cycle analysis of Pandora Charm Bracelets to look at the creation process from the collecting the raw materials to the recycling of them. We found Pandora Bracelets responsibly source their material by recycling their metals and hand-making their gems; however, they also participate in the usage of everyday capitalistic materials during the process.

The raw materials acquired for the making of pandora charm bracelets are sterling silver, titanium alloy, and stainless steel for the clasp. They also offer 14k gold plating, and 14k Rose gold plating, which is added later in the jewelry process after silver and titanium alloy are used; however, they do offer gold bracelets too. The charms themselves are made from silver and gold with additional handmade gems. Pandora claims to have sourced their primary material, silver, and gold, by using 100% recycled metals since December 2023. This is because the refineries that Pandora receives their metals from produce recycled materials from secondary jewelry markets, investment bars, and industrial materials. One of Pandora’s precious metal supplies, MKS PAMP, gives examples for all of these, stating that they, “... collect and refine old jewelry from South East Asia, non-London Good Delivery (LGD) bars from the banking industry and PGM gauzes from the oil industry” (MKS PAMP). For further explanation, LGD bars contain between 350 oz and 430 oz of fine gold collected from the banking industry. PGM gauzes are platinum-based gauze catalysts used to resist corrosion and oxidation by the oil industry. However, it is worth noting this refinery also produces mined materials so even if Pandora is only buying their recycled metals they are still inadvertently supporting the mining industry around the globe. One thing that is produced directly from Pandora and not bought through other businesses is the gems used in their jewelry. The gems that go into the charms themselves are 100% handmade in a laboratory. Although the process of growing stones can change depending on the gem type, the process is the same for most stones and diamonds. It starts with a tiny seed of grown (synthetic) or natural crystal. Then the seeds are placed in a vacuum chamber at very high temperatures to melt or dissolve them. The gemstone material that varies from stone to stone is deposited on the seed causing it to mimic its natural growth. For example, when growing a diamond the chamber is filled with carbon-rich gas that when heated bonds to the seeds. The gem is then extracted and cut to make its signature shape. According to an academic journal written by Sofie Boons the “…growth of gemstone quality crystals could lead to highly unique jewellery designs which would result in higher consumer attachment” (Boons). This supports the idea that the experience provided by minded stones is not dimmisnished by lab grown stones and may be even more meaningful. Additionally, man-grown stones are a synthetic replacement for a diminishing and limited resource. It is generally cheaper for Pandora to produce gems than mine them and therefore they can grow on a larger scale. It does produce a significantly smaller carbon footprint as these man-made stones are better for the environment since they involve no mining. Now that Pandora has all of their base materials to make the charm jewelry they can put it together.

The new materials added during the manufacturing process consist of rubber, wax, plaster, patina, solder, and natural gas for the creation and metal smithing of the Pandora charms. Once Pandora has designed a piece by sketching it, it will be created as a prototype. After that, they create a rubber mold for wax casting. According to Pandora, “The lost wax casting process works perfectly for larger productions, making it both economical and affordable” (Pandora) The casting process does provide them with mass production that is cheaper to afford. It also means there is a larger use of recycled silver and the creation of more new materials. To start the process, the rubber mold is made by pressing multiple layers of rubber together and vulcanizing it to make the rubber more durable and reusable; up to 2000 times. Pandora’s workers cut away the design pattern into the mold to make a hollow inside, then it is then filled with liquid wax. The wax is removed, this process is replicated to make multiple copies and added to a long wax stick in an upward spiral cycle to make wax trees. These wax trees are placed into metal cylinders, then liquid gypsum is poured into the cylinders over the wax. The cylinders are heated in a burnout oven for multiple hours which hardens the gypsum into plaster and melts the wax. These create hollow plaster molds that can be filled with liquid silver or gold which replaces the space left by the wax. Once the metal cools the trees are removed from the plaster and cleaned. Each metal charm is cut from the tree and all the scrap metal is reused. Pandora is a Danish company but most products are manufactured in Gemopolis and Thailand where they employ 11,000 people. Each piece of jewelry is “...pass[ed] through at least 20 hands before it hits the shelves. This involves setting all the gemstones in a charm, soldering pieces together, plus oxidizing and polishing the charms…” (Mora Pandora). This shows that there is a lot of metalsmithing involved in the manufacturing process. To make the charms they grind down the casted metal piece to smooth it. Solder is a metal alloy that has a lower melting point than silver, gold, and most other metals used in jewelry and it binds to other metals well. The use of natural gas is used to heat the solder and work on the charms. This method is used to set the stones and attach the clasp to the bracelets and the bail to the bracelets. Each charm and bracelet is then polished, textured, and then plated or oxidized with the use of Patina, a liquid the metal is dipped in. Once the jewelry is finished it is ready to be shipped to a customer or to retail stores to sell.

To make the packing for the bracelets and charms paper, recycled materials, and wood-based materials are used. There are also fossil fuels used in the form of gasoline to transport materials from Thailand and distribute the products around the globe. Jewelry is shipped to Pandora stores worldwide from the United States, Canada, Peru, Germany, and China just to name a few. Pandora is a global company and each store after receiving their jewelry to sell to buyers will put it in the signature packaging. Their jewelry box uses paper, plastic, velvet, and includes a mirror. While still using paper and fabrics in their packaging Pandora has made their packaging much more eco-friendly by “...eliminating all plastic from [their] carrier bags and reducing the plastic content in [their] new jewelry boxes by more than 75%. All paper used in the packaging is FSCTM certified1, meaning that it comes from well-managed forests and recycled sources” (Pandora). This is also the case if a piece of jewelry is ordered online it will be directly shipped from a factory in Thailand with the addition of a cardboard box, jewelry in a mesh bag, inside eco-friendly jewelry boxes. As far as shipping itself goes, this is where Pandora produces most of their greenhouse gas emissions. There is talk about using more sustainable transportation fuels in the future but as of right now to handle their shipping Pandora uses UPS, Royal Mail, and Yodel for its delivery purposes. Royal Mail and Yodel still produce greenhouse gas emissions but both companies aim to reduce their carbon footprint. UPS has gone on record that they are carbon neutral because they have “...supported projects that include reforestation, landfill gas destruction, wastewater treatment, and methane destruction” (UPS). To be “carbon neutral” you need to remove as much carbon from the atmosphere as you put into it, in that way, they are producing zero emissions. It is still worth mentioning how much gasoline is being used in the shipping process. Since Pandora has so many stores around the globe it is hard to say on average how much gasoline they use to distribute their products. For example, the distance between Thailand and the US by air is around 8,417 miles. Modern commercial airplanes, planes with 2 engines, use around 3-4 gallons of gas per mile or 1 gallon every second. On land obviously, they cover a lot of distance using delivery trucks that also use gasoline as a fuel and produce carbon emissions. This explains why this is Pandora's largest cause of greenhouse gas emissions, shipping products to customers.

So now that the paying customers have their Bracelet there is an underlying pressure to add charms to it and to take care of your expensive product. Once you have brought the bracelet from anywhere between $70-$2000 you want to make full use of it. You do this by adding charms that cost anywhere from $40-$1000, but the way Pandora advertises these charms you want to buy multiple, for the look of it or for the storytelling aspect. The idea that you can collect charms throughout your life on important events like on a birthday, anniversary, or during a big trip is enticing. At the end of the day it is still consumerism because it highlights buying more, producing more, and using more materials. After putting so much money into a piece of jewelry you want to keep it nice which is why Pandora sells a care kit. The kit includes “...a brand-approved cleaning solution for the materials Pandora uses in their items, a handling tray and a soft cleaning brush, and also a double-sided polishing cloth” (BeCharming). These are more materials used once the Jewelry is bought that become a part of the life cycle process. This could be seen as a waste or adversely, as a way to slow consumerism because customers who take care of their bracelets are less likely to buy a new one. Pandora overall is very careful with their waste and too make sure excess materials don't go unnoticed. The metals of faulty goods and returning products are remelted for re-use. On top of the fact they are already using recycled metals they are also saving their extra metals made during the manufacturing process and recycling them. Additionally Pandora recycles the gypsum, wax, rubber, and glass used in the manufacturing process. At the end of the day Pandora prioritizes their materials and makes sure nothing is going to waste unless it is necessary. Pandora states, “Most of the waste comes from packaging, such as plastic zip bags, labels and cardboard boxes” (Pandora). It seems like a majority of their waste including carbon emissions comes from the transportation aspect of the life cycle. This includes the waste produced once a package or gift bag is in a buyers home and then trashed. This is an area of improvement for Pandora and they are working to make all of their materials renewable and/or recyclable.

The way the Charm Bracelets are produced by Pandora put a high emphasis on the recycling of precious metals and the maintained quality of their bracelets. Even though the use of recycled and synthetic materials do pave the way for more mass production it is important to appreciate how much they reduce carbon emissions and mining operations all around the world. It is encouraging to see such a large company like Pandora putting their money and resources into making all aspects of their product more environmentally friendly. From the recycling of metals, to the reuse of rubber, the increasingly sustainable packaging, and more. I hope more companies look at Pandora’s drive for conservation and transparency with their production process and are inspired to do the same. Pandora allows us to hold some of the beauty of the world on our wrist without actively harming it any further.

Bibliography:

Sustainability Report 2023, pandoragroup.com/-/media/files/sustainability/sustainability-reports/pandora-sustainability-report-2023.pdf. Accessed 4 June 2024.

“Pandora Lab-Grown Diamonds.” Pandora, www.pandoragroup.com/products/jewellery-materials/pandora-lab-grown-diamonds. Accessed 03 May 2024.

“Refining.” MKS PAMP, www.mkspamp.com/refining/excellence#:~:text=MKS%20PAMP%20sources%20gold%20and,they%20expand%20their%20geographic%20footprints. Accessed 03 May 2024.

Mora Pandora. “Feature: The Making of Pandora Charms.” Mora Pandora, 31 Mar. 2014, www.morapandorablog.com/2014/03/24/feature-the-making-of-pandora-charms/#:~:text=Each%20charm%20is%20hand%2Dfinished,the%20charms%20%E2%80%93%20all%20by%20hand. Accessed 03 May 2024.

“Our Craftsmanship.” Pandora, sg.pandora.net/en/discover/pandora-world/craftsmanship/. Accessed 4 June 2024.

“Packaging and Store Materials.” Pandora, pandoragroup.com/sustainability/circular-innovation/packaging-and-store-materials. Accessed 4 June 2024.

“Crafting and Distribution.” Pandora, pandoragroup.com/sustainability/from-source-to-sale/crafting-and-distribution. Accessed 4 June 2024.

“Carbon Neutral Credentials: About Ups.” About UPS-US, about.ups.com/us/en/our-company/governance/carbon-neutral-credentials.html. Accessed 4 June 2024.

“Pandora Jewelry Cleaner Set.” Pandora Jewelry - BeCharming.Com, www.becharming.com/pandora-jewelry-cleaner-set.html. Accessed 4 June 2024.

Boons, Sofie. “Crystal Growing Design Method: An Investigation into the Growing of Crystals for Jewellery Designs.” Craft Research, Intellect, 1 Sept. 2022, intellectdiscover.com/content/journals/10.1386/crre_00081_1.

Safiah Nemr

Jaida Jacobie and Mitch Hernandez

DES 40A

Professor Cogdell

Energy Life Cycle of a Pandora Charm Bracelet

The jewelry industry contributes greatly to the environment’s ongoing climate change crisis, mostly through mining and raw material extraction. To make one piece of jewelry, 95% of the carbon footprint comes from mining while only 5% comes from manufacturing and production. Pandora is the largest jewelry maker in the world making the production of their pieces have a huge impact on the energy consumption and carbon footprint of the industry. One of their most popular products is the Charm Bracelet with other 800 styles to choose from. The life-cycle analysis of Pandora reveals that, in order to reduce energy consumption, they have shifted their focus to sustainability through the use of man-made gems, a popular element of charm bracelets, and obtaining recycled metals. As the largest jewelry company worldwide, their steps towards sustainability have promising effects on the environment by impacting aspects of the life cycle of their jewelry from raw material acquisition to distribution of their products.

Environmental Impact of the Jewelry Industry 

The jewelry industry is among the largest industries in the world with widespread environmental impact on water, landscape, carbon emissions, and human labor. Traditionally, almost every step of the jewelry making process is involved in release of carbon emissions and large amounts of mercy. This is starting from sourcing raw materials to distributing products to customers.  More specifically, according to The Journal of Cleaner Production, “Mining operations and precious metal refining in the raw material acquisition stage involve intense use of energy and direct environmental contamination from tailings. The assessment shows that the intense use of fossil fuel combustion for operating machines in mining and producing electricity is directly related to climate change and fossil depletion impacts. 69% of greenhouse gasses and 67% of oil equivalent are emitted and depleted by primary gold and silver production” (Thammaraksa). Considering all these aspects, Pandora has taken steps towards sustainability.

Raw Material Acquisition - Precious Metals 

A large majority of the energy that goes into making a Pandora bracelet is from the extraction of raw materials, mainly metals and gems. Pandora uses sterling silver and gold in all their jewelry which is traditionally minded and refined in order to be used. “Metal mining uses a huge amount of energy to extract metal ore, as well as emitting greenhouse gasses through its smelting and processing operations. Using recycled silver skips this entire process, saving 95% more energy compared to using raw materials” (Fleming). Pandora uses 100% recycled metals as of 2023. It is important to note that they do not recycle their own metals for manufacturing of new jewelry. They source their metals from a few companies that recycle and refine precious metals, most notably MKS PAMP Group located in Switzerland. They have a “refining capacity of  450-metric tons for gold, 600-metric tons for silver and 30-metric tons for PGM per year” (Refining - MKS PAMP GROUP). They state their main methods are electrolysis, wet chemical chlorination (aqua-regia), and wet chemical parting. Electrolysis used to purify metals is known to be a highly energy consuming process, for example in the process of extracting aluminum from the naturally found alloy in the crust. Aqua Regia is a mixture of 1 volume concentrated nitric acid with 4 volumes of concentrated hydrochloric acid. These chemicals are highly toxic and must be dealt with in the fume hood and with proper PPE gear. On average it takes about 3.5 to 5 liters of the aqua-regia mixture for each kilo of scrap. Scraph refers to the filings and dust from jeweler’s benches which are able to react fairly quickly with the aqua-regia mixture. However, if  “the scrap is in the form of old jewelry or metal shot or other large pieces, the reaction will be slower and a considerable amount of aqua-regia can just be poured onto the scrap” (“GOLD REFINING PROCEDURE.”). This can be a long process with not much energy used since the scrap/metal is sitting in the mixture for most of the process. If there are any diamonds of gems in the jewelry, they can be left intact and removed in the filtering process. After a while, the gold is treated with hydrochloric acid and thoroughly washed it is then ready to transfer into the filter where it is rinsed and dried to be left with the gold particles (“GOLD REFINING PROCEDURE.”). After the filtering process, the gold is melted. The melting process involves a furnace. This is where the bulk of the energy usage takes place in the process. There are three main types of furnaces, gas, electric, and induction. Induction furnaces are the most energy efficient because they use electromagnetic induction to directly heat the metal leading to less energy/heat loss in the process. This results in a controlled and precise melting process. Electromagnetic induction works through an alternating current (AC) which is passed through a coil, “creating a powerful electromagnetic field. When a silver crucible or container is placed within this field, it rapidly heats the metal through induction” (“GOLD REFINING PROCEDURE.”). The “[efficiency of this process] not only saves energy but also reduces operational costs” (“GOLD REFINING PROCEDURE.”). Since they are heating the metal itself directly, this allows the metal, such as gold or silver in the case of jewelry, to reach its melting point faster which also saves time and efficiency. Induction furnaces are known for their rapid heating capabilities. They can quickly bring silver to its melting point, saving time and improving overall efficiency.

Raw Material Acquisition - Gems

The second component of Pandora Charm Bracelets are the gems and diamonds. Pandora has switched to using lab grown gems in order to work towards sustainability and avoid new mining. In August of 2022, Pandora began growing, cutting, and polishing their diamonds with 100% renewable energy. This has allowed them to reach a remarkable milestone: 5% carbon footprint of that of mined diamonds” (“Pandora Sustainability Report 2023”).  The two main ways lab diamonds are produced is through high pressure, high temperature (HPHT) and chemical vapor deposition (CVD) (Bates). According to the JCK industry authority, a leading magazine in the jewelry industry, the founder of ADA Diamonds, Jason Payne said the “most efficient” growers use 250 kWh per ct., which is the same amount of electricity the average U.S. household uses in 8.7 days or the electricity to fully charge a Tesla two-and-one-half times. But most use about 750 kWh to grow a diamond” (Bates). Furthermore, in 2011 it was reported that “it takes an average 26 kWh to grow a round diamond and 57 kWh to mine one.” cutting the amount of energy by a little over half (Bates). China produces the most HPHT diamonds getting its power from “55 percent…coal and 20 percent from hydro. In India, another major producer, 75 percent of grid power comes from coal and 10 percent from hydro” (Bates). 

In Pandora’s 2023 sustainability report, they state that “by sourcing recycled metals, [they are able to avoid] around 58,000 tons CO2 per year. This is similar to the annual electricity use of 11,000 homes or driving 6,000 cars around the world” (“Pandora Sustainability Report 2023”). 

Later stating, “We believe our lab-grown diamonds point to the future of luxury, and we no longer use any mined gemstones” (“Pandora Sustainability Report 2023”). Obtaining materials in this way sets the groundwork for the manufacturing process.

Manufacturing

Once materials are obtained, manufacturing their products becomes the next step in one of Pandora's largest facilities located in Thailand. The majority of the steps needed to make Pandora Charm Bracelets are done by hand by skilled workers and detailed tools. However, there is still a lot of energy that goes into power in the facility when it comes to light, electricity, and applicable heating and cooling systems. On average, “manufacturing facilities use 95.1 kilowatt-hours (kWh) of electricity and 536,500 Btu of natural gas per square foot each year, according to the EIA. Of course, this varies widely depending on the type of manufacturing company you have” (“Sustainability Reports”). Specifically for Pandora’s crafting facilities, they are now covered by “100% renewable energy through the purchase of Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs)1 and on-site production of solar power.” (“Pandora-Sustainability-Report-2023)”. Located in Thailand, their two biggest crafting facilities located in Lamphun and Bangkok maintain Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Gold building certification (Pandora-Sustainability-Report-2023). This is the highest level of energy efficient certification offered by LEED. As stated in Pandora’s 2023 sustainability report, they “use 100% renewable energy at our crafting facilities, and we are making the same change in our stores, distribution centers, and offices. We are also working closely with our suppliers to ensure their low- carbon transition.” Just between the year 2022 to 2023, Pandora was able to increase their share of renewable energy from 70% to 86%, which impacted [their] market-based CO2 emissions positively. “This development is driven by an increased (+26%) use of renewable energy certificates. Our energy intensity has improved from 4.52 in 2022 to 4.30 in 2023 due to the combination of a decrease in total energy consumption and an increase in turnover” (Pandora-Sustainability-Report-2023). While Pandora is making actual change in such a short space of time, they acknowledge that this journey towards sustainability is not a linear one. In 2024 for example, they expect an increase in carbon emissions and energy usage due to the opening of a new crafting facility in Vietnam. This includes processes like “facility construction, retail network expansion, store refurbishments, increased supplier-specific data and overall growth” (“Pandora Sustainability Report2023”). Other tools used in the manufacturing include torches and flankers in the assembly of the jewelry. This requires human power and a primary mover and minimal heat to ignite torches and other small flames. 

Distribution, Recycling and Waste Management

Distribution, transport, shipping, and maintaining stores involve a lot of energy consumption. 

After the jewelry leaves the factory in Thailand or Vietnam, it is shipped on cargo ships across the ocean to various locations around the world. The nature of these large cargo ships requires them to use vast amounts of energy. This energy comes from fuel. “Most ship engines have been designed for top speeds ranging between 20 and 25 knots per hour, which is between 23 and 28 miles per hour. A Panamax container ship can consume 63,000 gallons of marine fuel per day at that speed” (FreightWaves Staff). Once they have arrived at distribution centers, they are put in retail jewelry shops for selling. To operate these stores, energy is consumed in the light, cloning, and other electricity systems. “Retail store energy consumption averages 14.3 kilowatt hours of electricity and 30.9 cubic feet of natural gas per square foot annually, according to the U.S. Energy Information Administration (“Energy Efficiency Tips for Retail & General Merchandise Stores”). Use of a Pandora charm bracelet requires zero energy consumption because the customer is only wearing it on their body. Due to the nature of the precious metals and gems used to make the bracelet, it has a long lifespan and is able to stay with the customer for years, or even be passed down to others. This reduces the likelihood for the piece to be thrown away or wasted. Other alternatives include sending it to second hand jewelers and retailers who can re-sell the piece. Additionally, Pandora provides services for minor repairs of jewelry pieces to limit waste and excess production due to buying replacements. The energy involved in these processes is transportation by vehicle. On average, a truck uses “the battery and fuel energy consumption in [trucks] is 4.3 kWh/mile compared to 11.1 kWh/mile of fuel energy in the conventional truck (Gao, et all). When it comes to waste management and recycling, Pandora uses surplus production of jewelry and faulty/defective pieces are remelted allowing for materials to be reused instead of recreating the product from scratch or throwing it into a landfill.  If the bracelet were to reach a landfill, the energy required in that situation is the operation of bulldozers, which uses about 400 horsepower and 3.6-6.5 gallons of fuel per hour (“Types of Gas for Your Rental Construction Vehicle). As mentioned previously, energy is very involved in the recycling process both for making the jewelry and now at the end of the life cycle. “Precious metals have always been recycled and therefore there is rarely any actual consumption of the product – ownership is merely transferred from one ‘owner’ to another…Recycled gold and silver can be melted down and recycled over and over again without losing their value or purity” (“How Are Precious Metals Recycled?: Atkinsons Bullion & Coins.”). The charm bracelet’s journey out of the factory into the hands of the customer goes through many times of energy consumption and is present in almost every stage of the life cycle. 

Conclusion

Pandora has set their goal to be net-zero in carbon emissions by the end of 2040 and maintain their use of recycled materials. As they begin to lower energy usage in different areas of their company, Pandora shows a promising trajectory towards sustainability and net zero carbon emissions, hopefully setting an example for others in the jewelry industry world wide. The overall lifecycle from obtaining materials to distributing the charm bracelet is an energy consuming process that has been slowly but steadily mitigated each year. Actionable steps have been taken such as sourcing 100% recycled metals and using lab-grown gems have many notable impacts and commendable changes to what it means to be a jewelry company in the 21st century.

Bibliography

Thammaraksa, Chonlawan, et al. “Corporate Environmental Assessment of a Large Jewelry Company: From A Life Cycle Assessment to Green Industry.” Journal of Cleaner Production, Elsevier, 26 June 2017, www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0 959652617313896?casa_token=HNzxjEN6JHMAAAAA%3AxyiXy_RJJOAuLB7SQYn7eURLzC7GiW6TfroW7DMamfBF4KCrafQbba0lONIpeEOLzDYYhAbjZtsP. 

Fleming, Stephanie. “What You Need to Know about Recycled Silver.” Seekd, Seekd, 3 Mar. 2022, seekd.co.uk/blog/2022/3/3/what-you-need-to-know-about-recycled-silver. 

“Refining.” Refining | MKS PAMP GROUP, www.mkspampgroup.com/services/refining#:~: text=Methods%20include%20electrolysis%2C%20wet%20chemical,fast%20turnaround%20and%20competitive%20pricing. Accessed 5 June 2024. 

“Reliable Silver Furnaces to Reduce Cost to the Silver Mining Industry.” Electroheat Induction, 29 Mar. 2024, electroheatinduction.com/induction-furnace-for-silver-melting/#:~:text= Induction%20furnaces%20utilize%20electromagnetic%20induction,the%20principle%20of%20electromagnetic%20induction. 

“GOLD REFINING PROCEDURE.” DGR Industrial Products, Inc. :: Gold Refining, chemical-supermarket.com/pages.php?pageid=16&mode=preview#:~:text=It%20has%20been%20found%20that,)%20per%2Dgram%20of%20scrap. Accessed 5 June 2024. 

“Reliable Silver Furnaces to Reduce Cost to the Silver Mining Industry.” Electroheat Induction, 29 Mar. 2024, electroheatinduction.com/induction-furnace-for-silver-melting/#:~: text=Induction%20furnaces%20utilize%20electromagnetic%20induction,the%20principle%20of%20electromagnetic%20induction. 

Bates, Rob. “Just How Eco-Friendly Are Lab-Created Diamonds?” JCK, The Industry Authority, 23 Jan. 2024, www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/lab-created-diamonds-eco-friendly/. 

Staff, FreightWaves. “How Many Gallons of Fuel Does a Container Ship Carry?” FreightWaves, 16 Jan. 2020, www.freightwaves.com/news/how-many-gallons-of-fuel-does-a-containe r-ship-carry. 

“Energy Efficiency Tips for Retail & General Merchandise Stores.” Constellation, www.constellation.com/solutions/for-your-small-business/small-business-resources/energy-efficiency-tips-for-retail-stores.html#:~:text=Retail%20store%20energy%20consumption%20averages,usage%20may%20be%20quite%20different. Accessed 5 June 2024. 

Gao, Zhiming, et al. “Battery Capacity and Recharging Needs for Electric Buses in City Transit Service.” Energy (Oxford), Elsevier, 27 Jan. 2017, www.osti.gov/servlets/purl/1342660#:~:text=If%20fuel%20energy%20for%20the,energy%20in%20the%20conventional%20truck. 

“How Are Precious Metals Recycled?: Atkinsons Bullion & Coins.” Atkinsons Coins & Bullion, atkinsonsbullion.com/news/august-2022/how-are-precious-metals-recycled. Accessed 6 June 2024. 

“Types of Gas for Your Rental Construction Vehicle • Central Power.” TYPES OF GAS FOR YOUR RENTAL CONSTRUCTION VEHICLE, Central Power Systems Construction, cpower.com/2021/11/16/types-of-gas-for-your-rental-construction-vehicle/. Accessed 6 June 2024.

Flipsnack. “Pandora-Sustainability-Report-2023.” Flipsnack, 7 Feb. 2024, www.flipsnack.com/PandoraDigitalFlipbooks/pandora-sustainability-report-2023/full-view.html. 

Mitch Hernandez

DES 40A

Professor Cogdell

June 3, 2024

Pandora Bracelet Waste and Emissions

Pandora, a Danish jewelry company founded in 1982, offers a diverse range of products including necklaces, rings, charms, bracelets, and more. Their jewelry has been known to be popular amongst crowds with the company’s branded designs and quality. This paper will primarily focus on the company's bracelets, examining the entire production process from start to finish and its subsequent impact on waste and emissions on the environment. As research has shown throughout the years, waste and emissions from manufacturing can significantly affect the environment, disrupting ecosystems and its inhabitants for years. This potentially contributes to global warming and unhealthy environmental conditions. With Pandora's commitment to using recycled materials in their jewelry, the company is taking important steps towards a more sustainable future in the jewelry industry. Pandora bracelets primarily feature a plain base made of metals such as silver or gold, which can be personalized with an array of charms available, which are sold separately, for purchase at their numerous physical stores or online. Pandora’s efforts to reduce waste and pollution emissions throughout their manufacturing process has shown significant changes throughout the years: including changes in regards to acquiring their raw materials, distribution of their products, product maintenance and waste management while maintaining the transparency of their impact on the environment. 

When it comes to acquiring the raw materials for their products, Pandora is shifting its focus from extracting new raw materials for their jewelry, like gold and silver, to using recycled versions of these metals, which still hold the same value [1]. This transition involves sourcing gold and silver from previous waste materials, effectively removing the need for new mining operations. Pandora resources their materials from recycling companies such as Umicore, MKS PAMP and Arezzo Refinery which use primarily clean energy that creates less waste [2]. MKS PAMP for instance is a company from Switzerland that refines metals such as those used to make Pandora's signature charm bracelet. The company uses 100% hydroelectric power, claiming that 100% of the water that comes out of the production process is clean and clear from toxins so that it can be safely recycled for other purposes [3]. Hydroelectric power is known to be a more ecofriendly approach for manufacturing and contributes to less carbon emissions since it solely relies on the movement of water to supply its energy, therefore not contributing to any air emissions or waste products [9].

By recycling gold and silver from sources such as electronic waste, industrial by-products, and old jewelry Pandora is contributing to less waste emissions in comparison to traditional extraction such as mining.This move towards recycling has enabled Pandora to avoid an estimated 58,000 metric tons of carbon dioxide emissions annually [5]. In general it’s been shown that recycled gold produces up to 99.8% fewer greenhouse gas emissions than mined gold, and 14% of the emissions in mining when recycling silver [6]. To look more quantitatively, a ring made with newly mined gold can cost up to 64 kgs of carbon whereas it takes less than 100 grams when using recycled gold [6]. As for the gems and diamonds that can be featured in some bracelets and charms, Pandora shifted to lab growing their own diamonds which produce just 5% of carbon emissions when compared to mining diamonds [4]. 

Pandora made this switch to recycled materials because extracting metals such as gold and silver through mining is highly detrimental to the environment. Mining can produce waste products and carbon emissions to the environment while exposing miners to toxic substances. Waste emissions in the form of gasses, such as carbon monoxide and hydrogen sulfide, can pose miners to potential health risks while contaminating the atmosphere surrounding the mines. Additionally, mining companies frequently dispose of toxic waste such as mercury and cyanide in rivers, lakes, and oceans, causing severe pollution [7]. Mining companies oftentimes use tailing dams as a way to avoid dumping waste into freshwater by dumping the waste onto dirt, which often fails [11]. Tailing dam failures release toxic substances into waterways and create acid mine drainage, which is destructive to aquatic life and hazardous to human health [12]. By using recycled materials, these waste products and risks that come from mining are not a part of the production process of the Pandora bracelet. 

Now that the materials are acquired, Pandora’s manufacturing center located in Gemopolis, Thailand, gets to work. Gemopolis is where all of Pandora's gold, silver and other materials are brought in to start the manufacturing process [13]. 100% of the energy used in their Thailand facilities is renewable and is provided by other companies which in turn creates no carbon emissions [14]. Once the bracelet is done being made, what is left to produce is the company’s reduced plastic packaging that will hold the product. Producing the packaging for the bracelet can come with its own waste and emissions, acknowledging that Pandora has made an announcement that their plastic packaging will be  reduced in quantity. This shift in reduced plastic packaging resulted in more than 60% fewer greenhouse gasses than the older versions of their packaging [4]. Aside from atmospheric waste emissions, Pandora’s four main waste products are gypsum, glass, wax and rubber which are recycled through separate companies Pandora collaborates with. Additionally any wastewater produced at the facility is checked for quality before being released to other bodies of water [15]. 

Inside the facilities it’s been reported that Pandora’s employees work inside air conditioned rooms with the necessary attire to ensure their safety as they work on the pieces of jewelry. Additionally it’s been reported that workers are provided free transportation, meals, health insurance and more [17]. It’s been made clear that workers aren’t exposed to any toxic waste nor emissions as it has been stated that over 90% of greenhouse gas emissions come outside the company through the transportation and recycling of the materials used in making the bracelets and not the actual manufacturing of the bracelet [10]. Aside from quantitative amounts of waste and emissions outside the manufacturing unit, conditions inside the manufacturing facility seem promising. 

Once the Pandora bracelet is manufactured and has gone through packaging, it goes through shipping before reaching its customers. Pandora collaborates with UPS, the United States parcel service, for the distribution of their orders. UPS employs various modes of transportation, including delivery trucks, cargo planes, and boats, to ensure timely delivery [16]. The primary source of waste emissions in this transportation process is carbon dioxide, stemming from fuel combustion in the transportation vehicles. However, UPS's operations also produce additional forms of waste emissions such as nitrogen oxide and particulate matter [17]. While it's worth considering the carbon emissions associated with the electricity usage in UPS centers, delving into this aspect would exceed the scope of the Pandora bracelet lifecycle. The waste and emissions that come from the distribution of goods varies, as consumers of Pandora jewelry can be located in multiple locations.

There hasn’t been any information regarding waste emissions once customers receive their products, as Pandora bracelets are user friendly. Pandora bracelets, depending on its material, can show signs of wear through time and tarnish like many jewelry. Pandora offers a cleanser kit that can be purchased separately to maintain the product's quality. Manufacturing this product can lead to additional carbon emissions, contributing to the overall carbon footprint of the product itself. But overall gold and silver has been proven to last for years due to being materials that are very strong and durable. Posing no harm to individuals wearing their Pandora bracelet [8].

Materials such as gold and silver can be recycled multiple times without losing its value [8]. Once customers no longer feel attached to their Pandora bracelet there are multiple modes of recycling the product. This can be through second hand retail or jewelry stores, donation centers and more. That being said, in order to transport an object for it to be either resold or recycled there are means of transportation which can require additional carbon emissions. This type of data regarding the waste and emissions varies from person to person depending on the amount of travel it takes for the bracelet to reach its second destination.

In terms of waste management with all of the waste and emissions that come out of the production process of making the Pandora bracelet, the bracelet poses no significant amount of waste in its afterlife. Once customers receive their order, the bracelet can oftentimes end up in second hand stores or are passed to someone else. However sometimes these bracelets are thrown away and could end up in landfills which could then find their way to oceans and soil. Materials such as gold and silver do no harm for the environment although they pose risk to the wildlife such as fish who can potentially consume the material. Aside from that, the bracelet itself being made out of either gold or silver can last for years posing no serious damage to the environment.

Overall, Pandora’s waste and emissions throughout the life cycle of their bracelet is on the route for a sustainable future. Despite this it is important to question the specifics of the reports provided by Pandora to check if the company keeps their promises regarding their eco-friendly manufacturing process and the health of their workers as the future continues. In addition, after reflecting on the mainly eco-friendly life cycle of the bracelet, it does raise the question as to why Pandora is still using plastic packaging instead biodegradable packaging? Nonetheless, Pandora is shifting to recycle materials instead of extracting new ones and growing their own diamonds, the company’s carbon footprint has lessened throughout the years and will hopefully continue down that path. 

Footnotes

[1] Pandora Now Sources 100% Recycled Silver, Gold for Its Jewelry

[2] Pandora Sourcing

[3] ESG

[4] Pandora Driving Sustainability in the Jewellery Industry

[5] How Pandora, the world's largest jewelry maker, switched to recycled silver and gold

[6] Recycled precious metals are the most responsible and sustainable choice for jewelry making. Here’s why …

[7]Environmental Impacts of Gold Mining

[8]The lifespan of gold: Non-plated and 925 sterling silver plated

[9] Hydropower explained

[10] Jewelry Goes Green

[11] Tail Dams in Mines - Use of Eddy Pumps as Effective Equipment For Heavy Material Fluid Requirements

[12] WORLD MINE TAILINGS FAILURES—FROM 1915

[13] Our Gemopolis facility

[14] Sustainability at Pandora

[15] Crafting and distribution at Pandora

[16] Credentials for UPS carbon neutral

[17] Transport and Carbon Emissions in the United States: The Long View (academic source)

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