Design Life-Cycle

Junru Chen

Research on Roger Dubuis materials

The Roger Dubuis Watch is a globally renowned high-end luxury product whose unique design and exquisite craftsmanship have earned it a worldwide reputation. The material selection of these watches is full of innovation and refinement, providing consumers with an unparalleled experience. This article will focus on the importance of the material choice of Roger Dubuis watches on its environmental impact, including energy consumption, raw material access and waste pollution.

  Roger Dubuis's watch case is made of carbon fiber, which is lightweight and strong, and the unique texture makes each watch unique. Carbon fiber is an advanced composite material, whose excellent mechanical properties and lightweight characteristics make it widely used in the fields of aerospace, automobile and sports equipment. However, the production process of carbon fiber requires a lot of energy consumption, and will produce a certain amount of waste, which is a problem we need to pay attention to. In addition, the recycling and disposal of carbon fiber is also a challenge, as it requires special equipment and technology.

  Roger Dubuis watches have a long service life and strong durability, thanks to their high-quality materials and sophisticated manufacturing processes. The maintenance of the watch mainly includes regular cleaning and maintenance to maintain its good running condition and appearance. In addition, some parts of the Roger Dubuis watch (such as the strap) can be replaced, which can not only extend the service life of the watch, but also customize the appearance of the watch according to the needs and preferences of the user.

   Some materials of Roger Dubuis watches, such as carbon fiber and natural rubber, can be recycled, but this requires specialized equipment and technology. In addition, after the end of the service life of the watch, some of its parts (such as batteries and electronic components) need special treatment to prevent pollution to the environment.

 The material choice of Roger Dubuis watches has an important impact on the environment. From energy consumption and raw material acquisition to waste disposal, every step can have an impact on the environment. However, by improving the design and production process, we can reduce these impacts, offering possibilities for future sustainability. Further research is needed on how to effectively recycle and dispose of these materials to reduce their environmental impact.

  Roger Dubuis watches are sold worldwide, which means they need to travel long distances to reach consumers. This process involves various modes of transport, including air, sea and land transport, each of which produces carbon emissions. In addition, packaging materials in the distribution process are also a factor to consider, as they often become waste after use.

  Therefore, choosing recyclable or degradable packaging materials, as well as optimizing logistics strategies to reduce transportation distances, are effective ways to reduce environmental impact.

  Some materials of Roger Dubuis watches, such as carbon fiber and natural rubber, can be recycled, but this requires specialized equipment and technology. In addition, after the end of the service life of the watch, some of its parts (such as batteries and electronic components) need special treatment to prevent pollution to the environment.

  The material choice of Roger Dubuis watches has an important impact on the environment. From energy consumption and raw material acquisition to waste disposal, every step can have an impact on the environment. However, by improving the design and production process, we can reduce these impacts, offering possibilities for future sustainability. Further research is needed on how to effectively recycle and dispose of these materials to reduce their environmental impact.

 Noah Tadeo

Prof. Cogdell

DES 040/SAS 043

June 5, 2024

Embodied Energy of a Roger Dubuis Wrist Watch

In 2023, to commemorate the 150th anniversary of Pirelli, an Italian multinational tire company, Swiss watch manufacturer Roger Dubuis unveiled a cutting-edge exclusive wrist watch that epitomizes the company’s commitment to innovation and avant-garde design: the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider MT. Crafted from mineral composite fiber and titanium inspired by elements of its motorsport heritage, this limited-edition timepiece features a single flying tourbillon in a skeletonized stainless steel case, showcasing its intricate mechanics and top of the line craftsmanship. With only 88 pieces produced worldwide, this highly valuable watch is a remarkable fusion of luxury and innovation. Roger Dubuis, being a company that prides itself on sustainability, allocates a majority of energy use towards the phases of raw material extraction, transportation and distribution of watches' lifecycle. The manufacturing, assembly, maintenance and waste stages of the product’s lifetime consumes less energy than the aforementioned processes, reflecting the company’s commitment to reducing environmental impact.

Raw Material Extraction and Manufacturing

The Excalibur Spider MT is constructed with a number of materials with the main components being stainless steel, titanium, rubber, and mineral composite fiber (MCF), otherwise known as mineral-impregnated carbon fiber. Each of these materials are extracted from the earth and processed, which is the most energy intensive process in the production of the watch. 

Stainless steel

Starting with stainless steel, utilized for the watch’s skeletonized case, this material begins its lifecycle as iron ore. Iron ore forming minerals occur naturally all over the world, though the most common iron-ore producing country is Australia, producing 880 million metric tonnes of ore in 2022 (Das). Iron is typically mined using two different methods: surface or open-pit mining, or underground/shaft mining, both of which require varying amounts of energy. Both forms of mining follow a similar procedure of drilling, blasting, loading, and hauling of the material along with other miscellaneous tasks like crushing, screening and grinding of the ore. Electric and fuel oil are the primary sources of energy utilized during these processes. The hypothetical energy requirements (in BTU per ton of ore) of iron mining processes are as follows: drilling: 1707 BTU per ton of ore; blasting: 2901 BTU; loading: 6315 BTU; haulage: 50859 BTU; and miscellaneous: 6486 BTU (ITP Mining: Energy and Environmental Profile of the U.S. Mining Industry: Chapter 4: Iron 10). In total, it would take over 68000 BTU to extract a ton of iron ore, with the haulage or transportation of the ore accounting for a majority of energy consumption. The ore must then be processed into stainless steel, which requires various methods of heating, melting, and purifications. The most common forms of steelmaking are blast and electric arc furnace smelting (Steel Production), with research suggesting each process theoretically takes 10.5-11.5 and 2.1-2.4 106 BTU/ton respectively (Fruehan et. al.). 

Titanium

The case material of the Excalibur Spider MT is built from high-quality titanium, a metal which requires a list of different processes for extraction and processing. The materials life cycle begins with rutile mining, which uses a substantial amount of energy to concentrate the mineral rutile, or titanium dioxide, for further titanium production (Energy Demand). The ore then goes through an extremely hot chlorination process to remove impurities (Energy Demand). The remaining metal then goes through reduction using magnesium and electrolysis, a process taking up to 4 days to produce energy for a batch of 8 tons (Energy Demand). Lastly comes the ingot melting process, or the vacuum arc remelting (VAR) process, in which the reduced titanium sponges are pressed and formed into blocks under an inert gas atmosphere (Energy Demand). Research approximates that the numerous titanium making procedures consume up to 127900 kWh per ton of metal produced, explaining why the raw material extraction and processing stages are so energy and cost intensive (Energy Demand).

Rubber

Roger Dubuis crafts the watches’ strap from rubber, a material derived from the Hevea Brasiliensis, or the rubber tree. During the three-decade lifespan of the rubber tree, it has been found to sequester approximately 272 tons of carbon per hectare (Chapman), suggesting that the plant is effective at mitigating carbon emissions. Rubber production is not nearly as energy intensive as the previously mentioned steel and titanium, costing only approximately 16 MJ per Kg of rubber produced, with fertilizers and other chemicals accounting for 5 MJ/Kg; primary processing costing 3 MJ/Kg; and transport: 8 MJ/Kg. Unlike other tropical agricultural ventures like tea and coffee, the energy input for fertilizers in rubber production is much lower since the rubber tree requires less nutrients from the soil.

Mineral Composite Fiber

Mineral composite fiber (MCF) is a type of fiber reinforced composite material that incorporates mineral particles such as silica and glass. These particles contribute to the stiffness, strength, and thermal resistance of the material. The process of making MCF starts with the selection of appropriate materials, which changes based on the application it is required for (Mechtcherine et. al.). Once the materials are selected, they undergo a melting process to form fibers. These fibers are then woven and binded together by a matrix material, which is typically a polymer resin. The formed composite must finally be cured, which can involve exposure to heat, pressure, or chemicals. As for energy requirements, it is challenging to provide an exact figure as they can vary widely depending on the factors such as mineral selection, transportation of these minerals, and the scale of production. 

Assembly

The assembly of luxury watch components like that of the Excalibur Spider MT is very meticulous and requires skilled craftsmanship and handicraft that cannot be accomplished by machine. For this reason, the energy consumption of this stage of the watches’ lifecycle is difficult to consider. It can be inferred that high quality watch manufacturers like Roger Dubuis put hundreds of hours of skilled manual labor into the fabrication of each of their watches to ensure unparalleled quality and precision. This is proven by the Geneva Seal, a prestigious certification of quality and craftsmanship that is awarded to watches that meet specific criteria of excellence, with the Excalibur Spider MT being an exquisite bearer of the seal (Excalibur Spider MT - DBEX0545: Roger Dubuis). 

Transportation

The process of transporting something as valuable as a watch like the Excalibur Spider MT is something that Roger Dubuis takes very seriously, reflecting the brand’s commitment to high standards. Led under the Richemont Group, a Switzerland-based luxury goods holding company founded in 1988, Roger Dubuis manages a global network of authorized dealers, ensuring their timepieces are received by clients worldwide. The company utilizes strict quality control standards at each stage of the distribution process to preserve the integrity of the watches, including but not limited to the use of specifically designed protective packaging, specialized shipping services, and tracked and insured delivery (Koh). Although Roger Dubuis does not give specific information regarding the total energy consumption during this stage of the timepiece’s life cycle, one could consider the logistics behind private air freight transport; a commonly used form of transport for delivery to overseas and long-distance consumers. Generally, light to midsize aircraft can consume anywhere from 220 to 350 gallons of fuel per hour, costing approximately $600 to $1500 (How Much Does It Cost to Fuel a Private Jet?). The frequency of these flights is hard to pinpoint when it comes to the distribution of the luxury watches, though considering rarity of a timepiece like the Excalibur Spider MT with only 88 pieces in circulation worldwide, it is reasonable to assume that energy consumption during distribution is not nearly as expensive as something like the stage of raw material acquisition.

Maintenance

Roger Dubuis values crafting quality and durable timepieces that can last a lifetime with proper care. The company offers a special maintenance service for timepieces with a maximum sale price of $100000 USD, in which the product is packaged, shipped to an authorized workshop, skillfully serviced by expert watchmakers, and returned (Roger Dubuis Pick Up Service), which can be an energy consuming process given the info on the embodied energy of product transport. It is also important to note that the manufacturing and distribution of replacement parts as well as the disposal of worn-out parts can also potentially impact energy consumption. As for the watch itself, the Excalibur Spider MT is hand-wound, meaning batteries are not required for the watch to function.   

Waste Produced & Recycled

Being a relatively modern company, Roger Dubuis has undoubtedly produced timepieces since its inception that are still being used today. Because of their exceptional craftsmanship, innovation, and attention to detail, the company has built a reputation of making extraordinary watches made to last. With limited production and comprehensive maintenance services, it is highly unlikely that any Roger Dubuis made watches have made any substantial footprint on waste and disposal issues, let alone reached the end of their lifecycle. However, there is waste produced in the other stages of the watches’ lifecycle, especially during raw material acquisition. The action of extracting and processing metals like iron ore generates various impurities, a form of waste material (ITP Mining: Energy and Environmental Profile of the U.S. Mining Industry: Chapter 4: Iron 10). Considering this waste material must be transported and disposed of, it consumes significantly more energy. 

In the hypothetical case that a watch like the Excalibur Spider MT were to reach the end of its lifecycle, one can imagine that the process of recycling and disposal would be like any other discarded product; the recycling bin. Though, it is hard to think that something as valuable as a Roger Dubuis timepiece, or any luxury watch for that matter, would end up in such a place. Realistically, when a luxury item is ready for its end, the precious material it is composed of—whether it be gold, or in the case of the Excalibur Spider MT, rubies— is dismantled and put through a specialized recycling process (Precious Metal Recycling - Everything You Need to Know).   

Conclusion

Roger Dubuis’ commitment to exceptional craftsmanship and innovation ensures that their quality timepieces, like the Excalibur Spider MT, can remain functional for a lifetime. The company’s methods of maintenance, limited production, and quality assurance significantly minimize their watches’ footprint on waste and disposal. Although energy consumption is inevitable in the production of any good, whether luxury or not, Roger Dubuis’ dedication to environmental sustainability brings priceless value to the timepieces they craft. 

Works Cited

Chapman, Andrew V. “Natural Rubber and Nr-Based Polymers: Renewable Materials with Unique Properties.” ResearchGate, Dec. 2007, www.researchgate.net/publication/228778128_Natural_rubber_and_NR-based_polymers_renewable_materials_with_unique_properties.

Das, Krishna. “List of Top 10 Iron Ore-Producing Countries in the World 2023.” GeeksforGeeks, GeeksforGeeks, 28 Feb. 2024, www.geeksforgeeks.org/list-of-top-10-iron-ore-producing-countries-in-the-world/.

“Energy Demand.” Titanium Alloys, Itlaw, 27 Mar. 2016, ltlaw.wordpress.com/2016/03/27/energy-demand/.

“Excalibur Spider MT - DBEX0545: Roger Dubuis.” Home, spark.rogerdubuis.com/public-page/product/2202. Accessed 6 June 2024.

Fruehan, R.J, et al. “Theoretical Minimum Energies to Produce Steel.” ITP Steel, Mar. 2000, www.energy.gov/eere/amo/articles/itp-steel-theoretical-minimum-energies-produce-steel-selected-conditions-march.

“How Much Does It Cost to Fuel a Private Jet?” Singapore Air Charter, 8 Nov. 2023, singaporeaircharter.com/how-much-cost-fuel-private-jet/#:~:text=Light%20Jets%3A%20Generally%2C%20very%20light,they%20are%20the%20most%20expensive.

ITP Mining: Energy and Environmental Profile of the U.S. Mining Industry: Chapter 4: Iron, www.energy.gov/sites/prod/files/2013/11/f4/iron.pdf. Accessed 6 June 2024.

Koh, Wei. “Roger Dubuis: Rebellious Design with Horological Substance.” Revolution Watch, 16 Apr. 2024, revolutionwatch.com/roger-dubuis-rebellious-design-with-horological-substance/.

Mechtcherine, Viktor, et al. “Mineral-Impregnated Carbon Fiber Composites as Novel Reinforcement for Concrete Construction: Material and Automation Perspectives.” Automation in Construction, Elsevier, 12 Nov. 2019, www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0926580519302857.

“Precious Metal Recycling - Everything You Need to Know.” Core Scientific Precious Metals Refinery, 4 Mar. 2022, core-scientific.com/precious-metal-recycling/.

“Roger Dubuis Pick up Service.” Roger Dubuis, www.rogerdubuis.com/services/care-services/roger-dubuis-pick-up-service. Accessed 6 June 2024.

“Steel Production.” American Iron and Steel Institute, 16 Nov. 2021, www.steel.org/steel-technology/steel-production/#:~:text=Steel%20is%20primarily%20produced%20using,produced%20one%20ton%20per%20day. 

Reeveson Masilamani

Noah Tadeo, Junru Chen

DES 40A

Professor Cogdell

6/5/2024
Waste and Pollution in the Life Cycle of Roger Dubuis Luxury Watches

Roger Dubuis, a famous Swiss luxury watchmaker, is recognized for its exceptional craftsmanship and high quality timepieces. Yet many consumers overlook the environmental challenges surrounding the production of such luxury items, particularly the staggering amount of waste and pollution involved at every stage of a watch's life cycle. From the extraction of raw materials to manufacturing processes and even post-retail distribution, maintenance and disposal efforts, Roger Dubuis watches are rife with adverse impacts that include (but are not limited to) toxicity emissions alongside copious energy consumption and generation of waste products. Awareness of these detrimental effects is essential within fostering any sustainable industry practices, this research paper delves deep into each aspect and demonstrates the waste and pollution that goes into a Roger Dubuis watch. This paper critically examines the environmental impacts generated throughout the lifecycle Roger Dubuis watches.

Waste and Pollution in Raw Materials Extraction:

The production of Roger Dubuis watches involves the extraction of precious metals and gemstones. Unfortunately, this process leads to a huge amount of waste as well as pollution. Among all the materials used for gold mining, mercury and cyanide are the most widely recognized ones; even though they help in getting gold out, they lead to large-scale contamination of water bodies and their surroundings. The contamination of water sources by these substances is a significant health hazard for the local population (Jaberg). Mercury pollution from artisanal mining alone affects millions of people with long-term ecological effects because mercury— being a persistent environmental pollutant — bioaccumulates in fish-eating populations far downstream from the mines and not only directly harm miners but also others who rely on fish consumption (Driscoll et al.)

Furthermore, mining activities lead to deforestation and habitat destruction — an act of environmental debasement, it seems, coupled with disruption of ecosystems. Mines frequently take the place of lush forests for one specific reason: the troves of minerals within their grounds. The death knell for biodiversity rings when local ecosystems are torn asunder due to this loss. The energy-hungry behemoth that is mining does not stop at deforestation: it uses copious amounts of energy, mostly from fossil fuels, which not only fuel its operations but also add fuel to the fire (pun intended) by increasing greenhouse gas emissions and global warming effects. These practices are two-fold in their impact: they do not only bring immediate harm to the environment but also spell long-term ecological doom, not to mention health hazards for local communities living near such sites where mining acts as a harbinger of death (both literally and metaphorically).

Waste and Pollution in Manufacturing

Chemical pollutants, as well as energy consumption: the two major outcomes of the manufacturing process for Roger Dubuis watches. Hazardous chemicals are released into the environment through surface treatments and polishing, leading to contamination of both air and water. The use of acids and solvents — such as sulfuric acid and trichloroethylene — in these unmanaged treatments can have detrimental effects on local ecosystems (Richemont). The result of these processes is that they can pollute water bodies; this causes harm to aquatic life and renders water unsuitable for human use. Infamously known for its effluents is Roger Dubuis: an infamous name in watchmaking.

Utilization of heavy metals in the production of watch components leads to generation of waste containing toxic materials which if not managed effectively can persist in the environment for a long time and consequently lead to adverse risks on human health and wildlife in the long term. Cadmium and lead are common metals found in such components and can contaminate soil and water bodies when disposed haphazardly (Teisseire). In addition, an investigation into the ecological consequences of traditional mechanical Swiss watches found that production processes are majorly energy guzzling. Around 86% of the needed energy is actually ingrained 

within the materials — such as rough parts, billets, or ingots — which make up a large part of manufacturing transformational components. Only 14% goes into the actual production stage; however, a considerable amount of this is taken up by the sapphire cover despite being lightweight compared to other parts (Weber).

The effect of these processes does not only end here, it extends to the environmental impact of surface coatings used in watchmaking. For example, PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) and electroplating surface coatings require the use of dangerous chemicals and heavy metals. While these coatings are able to provide corrosion resistance and an attractive finish, they are not without harm to the environment. An environmentally related comparison regarding various surface coatings would easily underscore huge waste outputs. A comparative study of environmental credentials of surface coatings highlights the substantial waste generated during these processes and the potential for chemical pollution (Comparing the Environmental Credentials of Surface Coatings).

Waste and Pollution in Distribution and Transportation 

The distribution and transportation of Roger Dubuis timepieces contribute to significant waste and pollution via packaging and emissions. The packaging materials are plastic and non-biodegradable materials that are unrecyclable and fill up landfills and oceans to cause 

long-term environmental damage (Richemont). Such materials contribute to the ever-growing problem of plastic pollution, which has far-reaching effects on marine and land ecosystems. The luxury watch industry is often known to have excessive packaging because it improves the customer experience but raises the adverse effect on the environment.

Finally, carbon emissions from the transportation of raw materials and finished timepieces in the global scope are immense. This, in turn, deepens the carbon footprint of the brand (Jaberg). The global transportation process involves the transportation of luxury timepieces at different stages: from raw material sourcing to the delivery of the end product to retailers and clients around the globe. At each stage, there is the consumption of fossil fuels which, in turn, will increase greenhouse emissions. According to a report from Richemont, its overall emissions increased significantly due to global transportation logistics (Degn).

Optimizing logistics and using recyclable packaging are key steps that can curb the environmental effect. By so doing, the carbon footprint can be reduced in companies through the following ways: chain supply streamlining, the effective way of transportation, and packaging waste reduction (Teisseire).

Waste and Pollution in Maintenance

The waste from worn components and the chemical residues of the cleaning agents and lubricants used in maintaining Roger Dubuis watches are all generated in the maintenance process. Even though proper maintenance lengthens the life of watches and lowers waste output, maintenance activities can still impact the environment. Depending on the way these used parts, such as gaskets, springs, and other small components, are disposed of, they could lead to pollution. Most of these components are not biodegradable. Should they enter the ecosystem, they will remain there, unchanged.

Chemical cleaning agents and lubricants used in the maintenance process are, in themselves, an environmental hazard. These chemicals can find their way into water and land, which can be a health hazard to humans and a threat to other forms of life. The majority of the maintenance processes of luxury watches are always done by using specially formulated, high-performance lubricants and cleaning agents which are efficient but have potential harmfulness to the environment.

Waste and Pollution in Recycling and Disposal

This will reduce waste and pollution in the environment. A robust recycling policy will help recover metals and batteries, which are precious products in a watch. This will go a long way in reducing the amount of waste in landfills. Watches have a variety of components that can be recycled. Precious metals that have been used for assembling the watches can be extracted and recycled. This will save time and reduce the need for extraction of fresh raw materials.

On the other hand, the wrong disposal of the above components may lead to environmental pollution. The poisonous materials in batteries and metal are deposited to the soil and water which results in severe ecological damage. The battery has poisonous material like lead and cadmium; if not disposed of safely, this may lead to soil and water pollution. This, therefore shows the significance of recycling in the industry. From this, the company can have a clue on the good practice that other companies have to do with recycling. It insists on safe extraction and recycling of components to reduce environmental degradation. 

Conclusion:

In conclusion, it is important to address key environmental challenges associated with waste and pollution at each stage of the life cycle of Roger Dubuis luxury watches. From raw material extraction to manufacturing, distribution, maintenance, and disposal at the end of the product 

life, each step of the way offers opportunities to lower ecological footprints. An understanding and mitigation of these impacts by Roger Dubuis will thus contribute to a broader goal of environmental stewardship within the luxury watchmaking industry. This further emphasizes how important sustainable practices are for maintaining the environment and the legacy of high-quality craftsmanship.

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